Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Happy Tryptophan Day

Ahem, ahem, Do, ra, me, fa, so, la, ti, do.... on three... one, two, three...

Over the river and through the woods,
to Grandmother's house we go...

Huh? Oh...

Put the horse away, as well as the sleigh--
Cuz Grandma's in Mexico!


Happy Thanksgiving, everyone. And my personal thanks to each of you for being my friend.

Love and hugs,
Gully

Quoth the raven, "Farewell"

There was no public announcement, no obituaries in the newspaper, yet somehow they knew. They began arriving almost immediately, from north and south, east and west.

Within a couple minutes, two hundred or more ravens, already dressed in funerary black , arrived at the site where two of their kindred had fallen. From all over the city they came, their obsidian eyes missing nothing, not even the smallest morsel, but they would not be distracted.

One of their kind lay on the frozen ground, the other snagged high up on the power pole where the devious electricity had jolted the spark from its brain and the beat from its heart.

Around and around and around, an eddy of coal-black mourners circled the place where the two lay forever still. Some perched somberly in trees. Nearby, the two-legged types that discard fried potatoes and ice cream wrappers and half-eaten sandwiches watched the spectacle, and began to think of ravens in a different way.

Then, their farewells concluded, the dozens of raven departed, back to their hard-scrabble life of searching for sustenance on the city streets and parking lots, the snow-covered tundra, and the frozen taiga of Fairbanks, Alaska.

(Note: basis for this story was an item in the Anchorage Daily News, Nov. 23, 2009: “Ravens form a wake-like gathering after 2 electrocuted” by Tim Mowry, Fairbanks Daily News-Miner via Associated Press)

Monday, November 23, 2009

Mirror, Mirror on the Wall...

There's that dad-ratted tourist again, the one who keeps getting into all the pictures.


Talk about a camera hog! Oops. We aren't talking weight here, people. We're talking about someone who crowds into every photo.

Oh, and did you notice the fashionable footwear on the dad-ratted tourist? Don't they look like light blue Mickey Mouse shoes? Well, they aren't. They are slip-on booties that all the tourists were required to wear over their street shoes. Here are my buds bootin' up:








That's Norman, Katy, and Kathy top left. Missy top right. And my own booted shoe on the bottom. Did you notice the twins are wearing identical striped shirts? Thank goodness they're in different colors.
Any why, you might ask, were we required to wear such protective booties? Because we were visiting this place:















Gasp. Ooooooooooooo.............Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

"This place" is the Catherine Palace near St. Petersburg, Russia. And the booties were to protect the exquisite parquet floors, some of which looked like this:

But back to camera hogs. I am reminded of a time I was at the Erickson Gold Mine in Girdwood, waiting around for my friends to wander back to the car. I started taking pix of this and that. A little girl saw me taking a photo of her stomping in mud puddles..........so she posed. I have no idea who she is, but I know for certain her mommy took lots of pictures of her. She was well-trained.















Oh, and by the
way....


















Ahem, ahem...

Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday, dear Gullible,
Happy birthday to you.

So I ask you, if a gal can't post her picture on her blog on her birthday, taken in the Catherine Palace while wearing light blue Mickey Mouse booties, without feeling conceited, well, when can she?

If you're wondering, I'm either 48 or 68. Take your pick.

The 48 comes from how many years it's been since I decided to write Gullible's Travels and acquired the nom de plume, or nom de keyboard or whatever it's called these days.
The 68 comes from the year I caused my mother to miss Sunday evening chicken dinner at the hospital in Detroit.

Well, I hope this posts on the date I scheduled it for. I wrote it in late October while I was in Halibut Cove. If all goes well, I hope to be drinking a big Margarita and eating carne asada when you're reading it.

Cheers!

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Flying with Egrets

Late each afternoon, as the earth turns and brings respite from the blue-white heat of day, the egrets abandon their daily pursuits and take to the wing. A band of lemon yellow suffuses the horizon as dozens, nay, tens of dozens, of slender white birds fly in waves over the casas and condos, haciendas and houses of Mazatlan.

video

Above the small convenience stores called “super markets,” past the Montana papeleria that sells single sheets of paper or single Band-Aids, still in business despite the behemoth office supply store a half block away around the corner, over the vendor with his two-wheeled cart of tejuinos and large bottles of hot sauce, the egrets fly west into the setting sun. Drafting off each other in “vee” formations, they fly between the Norfolk pines and the coconut palms, all in the same direction, hurrying before deep lilac and mauve push tangerine to the horizon and chase darkening lemon in pursuit of the vanishing sun.


They fly silently, leading with long beaks and trailing equally long legs, their long tapered wings carrying them swiftly to a nighttime destination known only to them. I sit in the twilight courtyard with the residents and guests at Burgos condos and watch the daily migration. Often my first glimpse of the birds is a reflection in the shaded windows of the complex. I look up and see them flying low over the two-story buildings.


When I first saw them and learned they were egrets, I wondered what they did with their long necks while in flight. Each evening I watched them, looking for the necks. Then, finally, I saw a fleet at a propitious angle, and could discern those necks folded back on themselves into a snowy white “ess.”

No one in this group knows where the egrets go at night. I considered various options to learn the secret whereabouts of their evening sanctuary. I pondered how to follow the flock before the indigo blanket of nightfall covered the land. The birds fly too low and too swiftly to track. They abide by their own compasses, and do not follow the streets of cobblestones, coarse pavers, and yellow-striped asphalt that delineate pathways for earthbound men.


I spent long minutes at Starbucks while Google Chrome downloaded Google Earth. Perhaps an aerial view, a “bird’s eye” view, will reveal some water sanctuary of which I was not aware. Google Earth showed me man-made canals for the exclusive use of palatial haciendas with private boats, and beyond that, the great and ever-rolling Pacific Ocean.


Then I explored closer to home: why do I want to know? Surely by the time the birds arrive there, wherever there is, the light would be too dark to photograph what must be a mind-boggling number of sleek white birds standing upright, long graceful necks posting their whereabouts.


And then I decided I don’t need to know, don’t want to know.


All we creatures, all the creatures of the earth, need our private sanctuaries, the places we go to rest, regroup, recover, and recharge. Like the egrets flying to their place of refuge, we all need that secret destination, even if--perhaps especially if--it’s only a quiet place in our minds.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Flocked Wallpaper Sky











Thursday, November 19, 2009

This and that in Mazatlan

You'd think that 24 hours a day with no chores or responsibilities, I'd have plenty of time to think up scintillating posts for you. Wouldn't you?






Nada. So, here's a typical day's schedule:




I get up between 7 and 9. That's A.M.










I eat breakfast--either a couple eggs scrambled with salsa and folded into fresh flour tortillas, or some of the wonderful yogurt they sell here. It's a well-known brand, but has granola and fruit and nuts in it, already mixed up.

Here's the yogurt counter at a local grocery store. That's ALL yogurt. Other dairy products offered could fit in my suitcase. I have no idea what the deal is with yogurt.




After breakfast, I grab my shoulder bag and head for Starbucks, about a mile away. I don't drink coffee. Quit in 1965. It's not the coffee, baby. It's the wireless!






Along the way, I stop at a creek and feed four slices of Wonder bread ("turtle bread") to the turtles.








Every day along the way, something new catches my eye. One day it's the shape of the trees.






Another, it's a pickup bed filled with corn husks.







Or the fountains in people's front yards.








Or, this vendor selling I don't know what. I never see him with customers. All I see is a giant, economy sized bottle of hot sauce.







I stop at a "supermarket" which is about the size of a small 7/11, and get a bottle of Coke Zero for ocho pesos, or about 75 cents. I pay $1.69 in Anchorage, and about $3 million in airports.








Back at the condo, I lounge around the pool all afternoon, reading books on my new Kindle, and snorkeling. I snorkel instead of swim because I can't multi-task when it comes to water, and I'm really fond of breathing. I snorkel a lot, figuring 25 laps around the pool is a half-mile.




Sometimes, we go out to dinner.




Pre-prandials at El Mamin, a seafood restaurant.

You like that word, "pre-prandial?" You won't believe where I learned it: in a construction camp so close to the end of the earth, you could see it from there.






Coconut shrimp and cole slaw with pineapple and chopped pecans....






To-die-for shrimp and sweet chilies tacos. With the Pacifico, $7 U.S. I could live there.



Then, back to the condo and the Kindle.







Sometimes I write. In fact, I have lots of stories saved up, but I need to get back home to the photos to illustrate them. One has to do with the day I found my mother in bed with a strange man. Another regards the time I found the plug that keeps the demons of hell from escaping their underground warren. Yet another is about the Glow in the Dark Boys.





It's a trilogy so far, but I'm considering a fourth chapter. What is that called? A saga? An epic?



And last (so far) is a treatise on the liability laws of Mexico.




Ah, well. Time to leave Starbucks and head back to the pool. Except, Julie London is singing "Cry Me a River." Maybe I'll hang around for a few more minutes, finish up my medium iced passion fruit tea.





I'm trying to figure out a dream I had last night. I won't go into the gory details, but it involved a stage production, a murder, me pushing myself in a wheelchair with a short stick through the snowy streets of Anchorage, running for an attorney love of mine for help.


I mean, really! Maybe I should have skipped the guacamole and chips last night.


On the other hand, I AM totally entertained all night.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Strolling under Seattle

There’s an old joke that says you have to know only three things to be a plumber (and you’ll have to forgive the colloquialism because it’s germane to the story I want to tell you):


1. Payday’s Friday.
2. The boss is an SOB.
3. Shit don’t run uphill.

Well, two out of three ain’t bad. It’s the last one, number three, they got wrong, taking it literally rather than metaphorically. I can tell you for sure that one’s wrong and its basis in fact is none other than the history of Seattle. Really. That’s what I learned last May when I was in that city and went on Bill Speidel’s tour of underground Seattle.





Strolling along the streets of Pioneer Square



To those who have never heard of this tour, it doesn’t have anything to do with draft dodgers—wait, they don’t have the draft any more. Okay, it doesn’t have to do with organized crime, disorganized crime, freeing slaves, the newest grunge band craze, or anti-war protesters. It has to do with the original city of Seattle, the one that sits a whole story, and sometimes more, under the present city.






Old Seattle



Anyway, one day last May, my friend Carlene and I boarded a bus in Tacoma and went to Seattle. We wandered around Pioneer Square for a while and soon found our destination: Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour office. We paid our money and we got our wrist bands. The instructions were to peel the protective paper off one end of the band and stick it to itself, making a colorful bracelet by which the payers could be separated from the gate crashers, or—in this case—the underground crashers.






At the appointed hour, we were ushered into a seating area adjacent to a restored bar, but with no bartender or cocktail server in sight, it lost some of its allure. Then our tour guide introduced himself and led us in some stretching exercises in preparation for our tour. He pulled our legs, pulled our arms, and expanded our imaginations beyond their capacity. He filled us with factual information, exaggerated assumptions, and outright lies about the beginning of Seattle, while at the same time he stretched his credibility to the breaking point.





It was during these warm up calisthenics that I realized why I loved my friend Carlene so much. It wasn’t only that she had been a faithful friend for almost fifty years, even though we had lost track of each other for years at a time. It wasn’t only that she had listened without complaint to my youthful misadventures with unrequited loves. It wasn’t only that she had always loved my dogs, or that we shared a love of folk music. Nor was it only the fact that she had saved each and every letter that I had written when she was away at college one year and had given them back to me almost forty years later when she retired and was moving from Anchorage to Tacoma, and those letters, a few years later, those letters saved my life, but that’s another story.

No, the thing that sparked my memory was looking down at Carlene’s wrist and realizing that she’d put her bright green wrist band on inside out. Now, that was something you really had to work at to do, but she accomplished it.




When I pointed it out, she laughed and posed for a picture. Then, this very intelligent college graduate, this lady who went to law school and was a practicing attorney until she retired, told me her mother used to look at her and shake her head while saying, “…and all that education.” Now, how can you not love someone like that?

But, back to shit flowing uphill, pardon my French.

Here’s the story. The guy who founded Seattle where it sits did so because of Elliott Bay. Big trees everywhere and a deep water port for exporting them. No matter that the place was in low-lying tidal flats and the streets were flooded with mud twice a day when the tide came in. Part of the problem was solved when the local sawmill gave all its sawdust away and folks built up the land to escape the tides. Then they built wooden buildings on top of that.




The biggest problem arose when folks started to install the latest invention in their houses—the indoor toilet. The folks who lived uphill didn’t have too much trouble, but the ones farther down the sewer line had porcelain gushers in their bathrooms when all the stuff that was in the lines got pushed back uphill by the incoming tide.

Told ya. It does flow uphill. Historical fact.

It was bad enough when the sawdust started to rot, but then a carpenter let his glue pot boil over and Seattle’s first urban renewal project took off like a wildfire. Which is exactly what it was. By the time it was out, it had consumed a couple dozen blocks of downtown Seattle.





Former teller's cage in underground Seattle.

So, the city fathers decided this was the perfect time for a mulligan. They built retaining walls to hold fill, and raised the level of the streets. At the same time, merchants were rebuilding their shops with brick and stone instead of wood. Thing is, though, they were rebuilding at the original level of the town while the new streets were at second-story level. In order to get from one block to the next, you had to climb a ladder to the street, cross it, climb a ladder down to the sidewalk and so on.





And the bank it was in.

Pretty soon, merchants installed bridges from their second stories to the new streets. Eventually, the first stories became storage areas and such. As new sidewalks were built at the new level, skylights consisting of small panes of thick glass were set into the walks to provide light to the lower levels.







Currently open shop in underground Seattle.

Today, thanks to Bill Speidel and all the arms he twisted, Pioneer Square has been preserved and is a vital part of the city’s past and present history. And Speidel runs tours of the Seattle Underground.






Sidewalk skylight.


And from above.
If you go, try to put your wristband on inside out. Just try.






Close up of skylight.


In case you’re wondering, every bit of this is true. Has to be—got it from the man himself. You know, the guy who led us in pre-tour warm-up exercises.




Bus stop in Pioneer Square.