The 2025 Botswana Journals, Ch. 33 An Incredibly Rare Sighting and Photos to Prove It

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Bashi leans toward me as he drives through the sandy river bottom and asks softly, “Have you ever seen a black stork?”

Instantly, my mind is spinning.   Black stork?    Black stork?   Have I even heard of a black stork?

I’m lowly shaking my head.  I run through the black bird list—African Open-bill, Abdim’s.   Nothing clicks.

 

It isn’t only the question.   It’s a tone in his voice that I pick up on.  Later, I realize that the tone indicates that he was going to show us something very special, and he was mightily pleased to do so.

 

Up ahead, I see something black, but it’s so far away it’s difficult to tell what it is.   Then, as we move closer, it flies away.   So that’s a black stork, I think, not knowing then how unique it is to just glimpse a black stork.

“Maybe later we’ll get another look,” says Bashi.

And, we do!   Not only a fabulous look at the stork, which is actively fishing while a gray heron stands by, probably intent on stealing whatever the stork catches, or perhaps annoyed that the stork is fishing in its pond.   

Herons such as Great blue herons and gray herons often engage in opportunistic theft and steal from storks and spoonbills.    It's called kleptoparasitism and is common in the bird world.

African fish eagles steal from saddle-billed storks, and herons steal from spoonbills, also.   I've witnessed both.   Bald eagles are renowned for thieving.

I’m shooting with my 500mm lens at its maximum as we dare not get much closer.

Plus, these photos are cropped.

 

Again and again, the stork plunges its head into the water, using its wings to power each thrust.  

 

 

Again and again the stork comes up empty, water dripping from its head and long red bill.

 

Eventually, the heron gives up on the stork and leaves, but the stork continues to hunt.

 

Finally, it brings up something so tiny I can’t tell what it is, even after blowing up the photo.   

Later in the day, when I have access to a computer and WiFi, I learn it is exceedingly rare to not only see a black stork, but have the opportunity to photograph one.

 

These African black storks (Ciconia nigra) are the same species as black storks seen in Europe, though those in Africa tend to be residents, whereas the European birds are migratory.   It is possible that the bird we are photographing is a migrant.

Almost 40 inches from the tip of its beak to the end of its tail, with a wingspan up to 57-61 inches, it weighs 6.6 lbs.   Though widespread geographically, its true population status is unknown due to the rarity of sightings.

 

At any rate, I am thrilled beyond belief to get to see this large bird.   To paraphrase Clint Eastwood, it “made my day!”  

 Lifer, lifer!

 

 

 Note:   These photos of the black stork are on the memory card that went missing for 2-1/2 months.   I was very
 happy when I found that card.

 

 

 

Kori bustard.

There's an owl in that thicket.   Can you see it?   Neither could I.

There it is.   A well-camouflaged Spotted eagle-owl.

White-fronted bee-eater

A man-made dam on the river to hold water for various species.

 

The 2025 Botswana Journals, Ch. 32; Surrounded by Lions

I'm publishing this one ahead of my post-every-three-days because it's more interesting than the inside of a lodge room.

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We are only fifteen minutes out of Mashatu Lodge on our afternoon game drive when our guide, Bellamy, finds this guy sleeping in what little shade a bush can provide.

       

 He seems to be perfectly content to lie there, so we move on after taking a few photos.

    Note how unconcerned the lion is.  He's actually asleep as we photograph him.   

     A short distance away, we come across a pride that consists of Grandma, Mum, three sub-adult males, and some sub-adult lionesses.     Bellamy positions us in the perfect spot for photos.

      Most lions are staring into the distance at something we cannot see.

        Something definitely has their attention.   As we watch, the youngsters move about to different positions.

            And some are sacked out in the afternoon heat.

        Mum moves to a better location right across from our vehicle.

And settles in to watch.

        Here comes the rest of our group.   Two sub-adult males are playing, but notice their arrival.

        There are more lions in another direction.

        A third sub-adult male joins his brothers.

        Then, they split up.

        All are watching whatever has caught their interest.   Perhaps it's the possibility of tonight's dinner.

        Suddenly, a male walks right past the front of our vehicle.

        He is so close, I could have leaned out and touched him.

        He lies down right beside us.

        Another male walks in the direction of the other vehicle.

        At this point, we are essentially surrounded by the pride.  

         Lions in front of us.

        Lions to the rear.

            Lions to one side.

            Lions to the other side.

        Yeah, this, too.   It's just an impressive yawn.

This Internet description says it better than I can:  

Lions generally view safari vehicles as 

large, harmless, and non-prey objects, often ignoring them due to habituation in popular parks. They perceive the car and its occupants as one singular entity rather than food, provided passengers remain inside and quiet. 

Key details on how lions perceive vehicles:

• Habituation: In areas like the Masai Mara National Reserve, lions are used to vehicles and see them as part of the natural environment.
• Perception: Lions often see the vehicle as a, "weird metal animal" not worth hunting.
• Safety Factors: Because vehicles do not act like prey, run, or show fear, lions, which are risk-averse predators, avoid challenging them.
• Exceptions: At night, lions have better vision and may distinguish humans inside, making them more likely to treat vehicles differently.
• Behavior: If a human separates from the vehicle, the illusion is broken, and a lion may perceive the person as prey.  

        Surrounded or not, we know to watch our lion manners:   Stay quiet, don't make any sudden moves, don't do anything to call attention to yourself.   Practice Zen: Be one with the vehicle.

            Because of those things, we can sit safely in the midst of a lion pride and have no fear.

        When we leave, we drive right through the middle of them and they seem like they couldn't care less.

        We see some baboons on the way back to camp.   Very young baboons are carried under their mother's chest, where they have access to her mammary glands for food.    As they grow older, they ride jockey-style on the adult's back.

        This little one is at that awkward stage,. perhaps too biog to cling to the belly and probably just big enough to ride on top.

A helmeted guineafowl for your bird fix this afternoon.

        We have sundowners near this unique tree.   Sundowners are a traditional African custom of pausing in late afternoon for drinks and snacks, perhaps much like the British have their tea time.

From the Internet, explaining traditional sundowners:

Key Aspects of the African Sundowner:

• Origin: The tradition dates back to the colonial era, when British settlers consumed gin and tonic to ingest quinine, which helped prevent malaria.
• The Experience: Guides typically select a, "picture-perfect", spot—such as overlooking a river, savannah, or waterhole—to set up a, "pop-up" bar as the sun dips below the horizon
  .
Drinks & Snacks: While gin and tonic is the traditional choice, modern sundowners often feature wine, beer, and, "bitings" (savory snacks/canapés).
Atmosphere: It is a time to toast the day’s adventures, take photos of the stunning, "golden hour", scenery, and, "embrace the, "stillness" of the African bush before night falls. 

The 2025 Botswana Journals, Ch. 31: Tuli Lodge to Mashatu Lodge

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      I am really sorry to be leaving this lovely camp, Tuli Lodge, but I'm also anxious to find out what Mashatu Lodge will bring.

      Tuli Lodge is by far my favorite so far for accommodations.   I much prefer the tent camps, because --to me--they have a more "safari" ambiance, than a "brick and mortar" hotel.

    Tuli is also the favorite of my travel pals, who answered a brief poll I took that was based only on accommodations.

        I say goodbye to our own personal bushbuck that rests near our tent.

        And to the tiny klipspringers in the rocks near the entrance.   These dwarf antelopes have a unique build in that they appear to be walking on tiptoes.   Their hooves are specially built for traction on rock, where they spend most of their lives.

   

            And off we go, deeper into Mashatu Game Reserve.

        The rooms at Mashatu Lodge are of the "concrete and mortar" type, but they boast air-conditioning!   We turn it on and leave it on for our four days here.

Haha.   The camera on the right is mine.   The rest of the stuff is Sylvia's.

The door immediately to the left of Sylvia's bed is the main bathroom: the other, darker door, leads to a smaller bathroom.   Two bathrooms!  Now, how fancy can you get?

Looking back at the entrance.  Later on, I'll show you some photos of beautiful skinks that live in those rocks.  Beverage counter to the right; desk with charging outlets to the left.

Wires, wires, everywhere.  Computer charging,  camera battery charging, iPad charging, and cell phone charging.  

A small room with a bed.   I appropriated it for my luggage.  Sylvia has another area with shelves and a closet where she has her luggage.

The big bathroom with a tub and a shower.

The small bathroom.   No shower or tub.

This is the gathering area of the main lodge, where we meet in the mornings for a quick breakfast, for group gatherings, beverage breaks, etc.

        This is what they served us for lunch one day!!!!    Family style.

L-R:  BBQ ribs, fries, bacon, sausages.

A second platter,  L to R:  Bacon, sausages, fries, and BBQ ribs.   There were also side dishes.   There was seldom any bacon leftover.

My plate.  Just getting started.   I got over feeling guilty about leaving so many leftovers on the serving platters when I found out the staff dines on those. 

 I'm being careful about what I eat, post-esophageal surgery.  Whatever goes down the easiest.   I have trouble with chicken, and a couple of camps ago, I got a chicken bone stuck in the back of my throat.   I knew what kind of awful noises I would make at the lunch table if I tried to get it out, so I left the dining area.

When I returned without the bone in my throat, I was asked.   I caught all kinds of heck from a couple of people for leaving when I was choking.   They only let up when I said I was not choking, that I could talk and breathe.   "Still, " they said.

        This evening, I head for dinner in this area.   I stop and turn on my cell phone.   Not for taking photos, but also for recording some sounds.

The buffet bar.   I much prefer buffets to plated meals.   I can take what I want, as much or as little as I want.

Another view of the dining area.

         We have a "thing" in this group.    Cell phones are not allowed at the dining tables.  I was not aware that this covenant had been implemented, but I found out when I looked at my phone to see the time.  Gentle scolding ensued.    I was really happy to hear about this addition because phones have been a problem in the past when I traveled.

        As the trip went on, the phone guideline was relaxed, usually because Shelly had to use her phone to check our schedule or determine our vehicle assignments.  Or someone would look up a particular animal or bird for more info.

         With that in mind, and being absolutely positive that no one would object, I placed my phone in the middle of the table and, with no comment, and hit the "play" button.

        The recording is of the sounds of Bubbling Kassina, a small frog that lives in a shallow pond next to the main lodge.   "Bubble" frogs, for short.

        Turn up the volume and listen to our fine dining music.   Nothing to see, just the bubble frogs singing.

        And I was right.   No one objected, and everyone smiled.

Some idea of where we are:

First, Botswana is located in Southern Africa.   Not South Africa--that's a country.    The red spot is Machete Game Reserve.

Second, a map of Mashatu Game Reserve.  Mashatu Lodge is left of center near the top, and left of the red indicator.    Note all the rivers in the area.   Tuli lodge in the south, almost at the border of South Africa, so close that we could see their lights if we were out at night.