The 2018 Africa Journals, Ch. 25: Predators and Prey

Just outside Kichche camp, two tiny antelope called dik diks are resting in the shade of a green shrub.  The smaller of the two is the male and has horns that are about three inches long.    He lies behind a log, chewing on something, his face covered with flies.

The female appears apprehensive, not of us, but of the numerous predators that live in the bushveld and savannahs of Africa.   We are so close to them I have to pull in my long lens to get them in the frame.

At first, I am amazed that they tolerate us because all the dik diks I’ve seen prior to these are quite shy and run away.   In the next couple days, I will see dik diks in camp, and one of the staff tells me the little antelope come into camp because they feel safe from the night predators here.

Standing about a foot high at the shoulder and weighing around 13 pounds, I find these little creatures fascinating and incredibly cute.  They are monogamous, a state brought about by generations of learning that it’s much safer to stay with one mate than to roam the savannah in search of another.

***

We drive far across the savannah of this Mara North Conservancy and come upon a large pride of lions.    Many are sound asleep on a mound and others are in the nearby bushes.   There appears to be about a dozen.

A year ago, this pride was farther south in the Masaai Mara National Reserve and were known as the Marsh pride.   They were featured in the Big Cat Diaries.   BBC was again filming them when I was there in February of 2017.

The lions of the pride were Karibu and his brother, Jambo (also called Rafiki).    Shortly after I left, other lions challenged the two brothers for the pride and won.

Karibu and his brother, along with many of the females and surviving cubs escaped northwards.   I saw photos of them hiding in ditches during their journey across the Masaai Mara reserve.   They settled in the Mara North Conservancy where they appear to be thriving.

As we watch and photograph the "flat cats" (a joking term for sleeping cats), a lioness emerges from the brush with a small impala in her jaws.

She attracts not only the black flies that plague all the animals of Africa, but also her fellow pride members who want to share the meal. 

Two cubs, who had been playing with each other, spot the lioness and rush to get something to eat.

 Not this time.   The lioness won't share with any of the lions, cubs or adults.   I wonder about her reasons for this.   To my inexperienced eye, she looks to be pregnant.   Maybe she's hungry; maybe she won't share because none of the other lions helped her hunt

The cubs reach her and she warns them away with a growl.   They cringe beside her, hoping for the best.

Persistence pays off, and one cub scores a leg.   It won't provide much sustenance, but it's something to chew on.

The lioness moves away from the cubs.

While we watch the lioness elude the pride members so she can eat in peace, our attention is drawn to the hillside and a lone female impala.

She is staring at the  predators below here, looking for her baby.

(Note:   Just in the last month, veterinarians were called to treat an injured Karibu.   In addition to other wounds, they found a hind leg shattered and beyond repair.  The beautiful lion was euthanized.   Now, the pride is defended by only one male lion and that makes it vulnerable to roaming lions looking to take it over.   For the cubs, such a takeover could be deadly.)

The 2018 Africa Journals, Ch. 24: Onward to Kenya Where I Fall in Love

Three hours after leaving Zimanga Private Game Reserve, our driver drops us off at King Shaka airport in Durban, South Africa.   We make our way to the waiting area for our flight to Johannesburg.


Laura and Holly will leave us in JoBurg, going their separate ways to home.   Marg and I continue this trip to Kenya, where two tents camps wait for us.

We will fly from Durban, on the southeast coast of South Africa, north to Johannesburg (the second red marker.   Marg and I continue on to Nairobi, Kenya, the big green marker.

Mango is certainly one of the most colorful airlines I've been on.

We say our goodbyes to our comp[anions in JoBurg and Marg and I board our flight to Nairobi, Kenya.   Somehow, Marg has arranged a ticket upgrade for me and we are in business class.

I doon't know if Marg is tickled at my exploration of all the bennies of business class, or embarrassed.   She ......endures.

Feet up on a rest!

Mabula and mac nut snacks.

A nice roast beef dinner.


And we spend the overnight at Marg's favorite Nairobi hotel, the Serena.

There's a mix up with our reservations, so the hotel upgrades us to a suite!


Marg (who never holds still) offers me the bedroom.   I suggest she take it this time, and I'll have the choice next time.   She's cool with that, and I am comfortable on the rollaway the staff brings in.   We each have our own bathroom.

Making up the rollaway for me.

A nice little desk area in the corner.


Next morning, a wonderful buffet breakfast.

My breakfast.   A half slice of French toast, a small banana, some melon, and a couple pieces of bacon.

Then, we are off to Wilson airport, where the small plane operators are located.

A fifty passenger plane.

An open cockpit.

Our destination is the Mara North Conservancy, located at the bottom right of the inset map.   It's labeled in red.

Welcome to the Mara North Conservancy.

Another plane arrives, disgorges its passengers, and takes off in a cloud of dust.

Much to the consternation of a male impala.

We wait a while and finally, our ride to Kicheche Camp. arrives.   It's pronounced Keh-cheh-chee.

About a half hour later, a fish eagle welcomes us to camp.

A bridge to the camp.

The camp is nestled in a grove of wild olive and croton trees.   The eight tents are spread out for privacy.   The camp can accommodate 22 guests.

While the camp assistants take Marg and our bags to our tent, I linger back for a photo.

 



Our tent is named Kiboko.   It means hippopotamus.    Hmm....


And here it is.

Not too impressive from the outside, but when  I walk in, I fall in love immediately.   This is a really nice tent.

My turn for the big bed.

A hippo pillow and a flower.

Marg selectes the twin bed in one corner.

The bathroom.

The john.   On the opposite side of the bathroom, canvas portions off a shower stall.

Marg tried to plaster that sign on my back.   Then she slapped on in her butt.   It's a 'Fragile--handle with care" shipping label.

We join the other guests for a really nice lunch.

The lounge tent.

Beautiful furniture.

We join the others for lunch and have a couple hours before the afternoon game drive to get our grea organized.   We will be here for four nights and already I don't want to leave.   Ever.

***

I'm including these signs that explain the Mara North Conservancy, but you will  need a large monitor to read them.  They signs are covered in plastic that have weathered.
 

Basically, one explains that the North Conservancy is a group of several large landowners who have partnered and agreed with the local Maasai herdsmen that the men can graze their herds in the area.

There are specific agreements for the compensation if a hersman loses an animal to predators.   Likewise, there are also agreements for handling the death of animals by herdsmen.