The 2022 African Journals, Chapter 18: The Misfits Leave Tsavo West National Park

 Chapter 18:

The Misfits Leave Tsavo West NP

The difference between chirping out of turn and a faux pas

depends on what kind of bar you're in.--Wilson Mizner

After last night, it's probably a good thing we're leaving Finch Hattons luxury resort this morning.   The Canadians started it.    The two Americans joined in whole-heartedly, leaving staff no doubt as to where we stood on the scale of cultural finesse.

It began innocently enough.   Randy and Sylvia were off on a trip to a rhino reserve and weren't expected back until late.   That left Randy's five other wives climbing wearily out of the Land Rover after the late game drive and staggering toward the main pavilion under the weight of all our gear. 

Marg, hereinafter know as the instigator of trouble and good ideas, said,   "I'm going to have a grilled cheese sandwich with French fries for dinner.”

"GOOD IDEA!"  chorused the rest of us.

And we did.   We sat down at the table covered with a pressed white cloth, candles,  and an array of wine glasses and ordered grilled cheese sandwiches with fries all around.   Someone told the waiter to give the chef our apologies.   After all, we still wanted breakfast in the morning.

Did we get two slices of American cheese food product on white Wonder bread?   No, our dinner came with homemade bread (crusts trimmed) and white cheese of some kind.   Plus, regular fries like you get in America and Canada.  It was the perfect dinner.

A meal fit for barbarians.   It was one of our favorites of the whole trip.

We opt to skip the morning game drive.   There is  packing to be done and we have to be at the airstrip for our flight to Nairobi.   Yes, we have to fly all the way back to Wilson airport in Nairobi and catch another flight to the Keekorok airstrip in the Maasai Mara to get to our next camp.   Each flight was about 35 minutes, so it was no big deal.

Some staff express surprise that we don't want a game drive in the morning and mention that another party went out in the field every chance they had.   Well, good for their enthusiasm.    Frankly, we seemed to cover the same couple miles, saw the same rock hyrax, the same giraffe at the bend in the road, and the same scenery every time we went out.  Game was limited and in deep brush.  It seemed like we never got more than a couple miles from the lodge, except for the night we went to the Maasai Olympics.

Plus, we are spoiled from being in places where game is plentiful and easier to focus a lens on.   And we are looking forward to our next camp.

I want to emphasize that these opinions are my own, and only mine.   I enjoyed my time at Finch Hattons.   It was restful and pleasant and a very nice lodge.

That is not to advise against going to Finch Hattons.   It is a lovely resort and there's lots of action around the water.   Staff does everything within its power to please and the food is very good.

In the morning, we have breakfast, say goodbye to staff, and to the hippos in the water.   The airstrip is only minutes away.

The weather this morning is grand and I get a clear shot of Mt. Kilimanjaro before leaving Tsavo West National Park.

Marg debarking in Nairobi at Wilson airport.

We get some snacks and cold sodas from the lounge  at AirKenya and then board a plane for the flight to Keekorok in the Maasai Mara.

Waiting at the airstrip there is a line of safari vehicles.   Somewhere in there are the vehicles that will take us to Enkewa.    

The Enkewa guides spot us immediately and soon we are saying hello and hugging them.   Marg has been here a number of times.   This is my second time and I feel like I'm going to my second home.

There are a number ri of camps serviced by this airstrip.   They all aren't waiting for us.

And we're on our way.   But, wait.   I don't recognize this route!!!

That drive was so unusual that it requires a post all its own, so I will close this one for now.

The 2022 African Journals, Chapter 14: Smooth Roads to Luxury

 Chapter 14:

Smooth Roads to Luxury

Tsavo, in all its mystery and wonder, has the power to enchant us in a way that we didn't even know was  possible in today's modern world.--Dr. Dame Daphne Sheldrick.

The first thing I notice when we enter Tsavo West National Park is that the roads are so much smoother.

 

The second thing I notice is the lava!

 

The third thing I notice is how thick the brush is.

 

So, relief,  questioning, and stupefaction before we even reach the Finch Hattons lodge.    The roads ARE better; I was correct about the lava; and, how the hell do the animals get through that thorny brush?

 

It took a bit to finally see the lesser kudu in all that brush.   The photo below  is cropped so you don't have to look as hard as I did.

Lesser kudu in thick brush.

About that lava.   There are pebbles and stones and rocks and boulders and flows of coal-black lava.   And it came from a nearby extinct volcano eons ago.   You’d think it would be worn down by now, but it isn’t.  I do not understand how the large animals can get through it without spraining an ankle or breaking a leg, much less how the grazers find enough to eat.

A giraffe in front of Ol Donyo Laramie mountain, an extinct volcano.

 

Yet, somehow they do.   The little rock hyrax love it.   They make their dens in it.   They sunbathe on the warm surfaces.    Randy climbed the volcano.   Oops, getting ahead of myself.

Rock hyrax in lava.

 

The drive to camp isn’t long once we’re in the park.    And the road  is good.   Did I mention that?

 

Lava monument for our destination.

 

Upon arrival, my only thought is, "Oh, my!"

The common area of the lodge combines a dining room, a bar/beverage area, and several couches and chairs for people to gather, something of an outdoor lobby. 

 

After registration and orientation, we are shown the pool and spa area.   Very, very fancy.

The pathway in front of the common area.

Finally, we are escorted to our tent.   Marg and I are roomies again and our tent is prpbably the closest one to the common area.   

The old bridge

Down a ground lava pathway, across the “hippo highway”  where generations of hippos have walked the same path from the water to grazing areas. across the new bridge (as opposed to the old bridge), part way up a hill, sharp left turn, and down the hill to our luxurious tent overlooking a large pond in the river.

 

Our front deck

 

our beds

 

Then, we kind of move in.   First things first.   Laptops and chargers for the camera batteries.   We find a way to share the desk with no problems and still have lots of room.

 

 

 

A huge tub.

 

The outdoor showers.  There is also an indoor shower that we used.

I try to take photos before we mess things up.   I was late this time.

Gobsmacked.!!  Marg says something to the escort and he returns in a few minutes later with a tray full of Coke Zero for our refrigerator.

What hidden wonders does this cabinet hold?

Well stocked with Coke Zero!

Coffee and tea service, bottled water, and booze.

uzzt photo but I wanted to show you that in most camps, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are included.    In addition to our sodas, there was gin, vodka, and whiskey.  It remained untouched.

And then, I walk  outside.

I know where I'm spending my free time!

Tsavo is the big green area lower right.