The Africa Journals
Chapter 63
SEAL ISLAND
Part 5 of the Cape Peninsula
There
will be a bit of rough water at the end of the bay,” said Brian. “Then the boat will slip behind the
protection of Seal Island and it will be calm.”
If he was trying to worry us,
it didn’t work. I’ve been in some rough
waters the last few years. There was the
huge catamaran sailing from Cairns, Australia, out to the Great Barrier Reef
and half those on board were seasick.
There was the Stormbird plunging
up and down in a furious blizzard and high seas as it crossed from Halibut Cove to Homer,
Alaska.
And the worst was the
monstrous storm the 300-foot Fram
fought through on the way from the Falklands to South Georgia Island in the
Southern Ocean as we were taking the scenic route to Antarctica. Good thing it was dark outside and I
couldn’t see as the horrendous winds churned the cold sea into 55-foot
waves. Yep. I’ve been in some rough seas lately, so a
little jaunt out of Hout Bay on the Cape Peninsula was nothing. After all, if the tide got low enough, you
probably could jump from rock to rock to the “big” rock they call Seal Island. Or maybe not.
This was the second day we
were on the Cape Peninsula south of Cape Town and Seal Island to see the
Southern fur seals was on the agenda. The
motor coach took us to Hout Bay on the western side of the peninsula. Once there, we made our way through a
multitude of tourists and boarded our boat in such a hurry I neglected to take
a photo of it. I will guess at 40 feet
long with somewhere between 30 and 50 passengers. That’s a wild guess.
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Hout Bay is on the left side about half way down the photo. |
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Brian was right. We
cruised out of the harbor and into calm water.
We passed kayakers heading in the opposite direction. As we neared the head of the bay, white
breakers stretched across in a long line.
Our boat hesitated as another boat exited the “calm” pool in the lee of the
seal rocks, then we rolled a bit as we entered the pool.
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Hout Bay from across the bay at Chapman's Point. We were heading for the rocks at the far left, under the large promontory. |
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I didn't take a photo of our boat, but I was awed by this beautiful yacht. |
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The castle on the hill is, Brian said, a B&B. |
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Southern fur seals and sea
gulls were all over the place. And mist. The air was saturated with mist from the crashing waves.
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Note the ear flaps on the seals. The fur seals are the only seals with ear flaps. |
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Misty air. |
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The boat maneuvered
in the small pool for a while, then headed out as another boat waited its
turn. That’s when things got dicey.
I took a couple photos, then
put the camera in a pocket and opted for hanging on to the rail. As the boat rolled into an extreme starboard
list in the hollow of a wave and I was wondering if she would right herself, I was
extremely glad that we weren’t on the other side of the peninsula in False Bay where
people go to see great white sharks breaching with seals in their jaws.
None too soon for me, the
boat righted and in a couple minutes we were back in the calm of Hout Bay.
Well, that was enough
excitement for today.
Now we’re off to Kirstenbosch
Botanical Gardens to look at flowers.
Little did I suspect that once again I would find my adrenalin pumping.
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This photo from Flowcomm shows the size of the charter boats. |
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Photo from South African Tourism. We entered the calm area from the left and puttered around in the water where the seals are. |
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This photo from Action Adventures Extreme shows Hout Bay and the seal rocks outside the bay. Not a very sharp photo, but it gives you and idea of the area. |