A few years ago, before my bank account grabbed me by the throat and told me to stop jaunting around the world or I'd wind up living in someone’s basement, I had a short bucket list of things I wanted to see before I died.
Very short:
1. Blue throat (bird)
2. Shoebill stork
3. Sable (animal, not the fur coat)
4. Narwhal.
I was thrilled to cross off the Blue Throat by making a trip to Nome, Alaska, that didn’t bankrupt me. The rest? I was resigned, reluctantly, to never seeing them.
***
This morning our guides are taking us into a part of Chobe National Park that I didn’t even know existed. It was a long drive before we turned off the main road onto a dirt road that led through some luscious greenery.
I mentioned that I thought it was quite pretty, and our guide explained that this area collects a lot of water during the rains, and thus the trees and bushes are greener.
We pass some solar panels. What? Many places in the reserves and private conservancies construct waterholes to keep the animals around the area. The energy accumulated operates a pump that provides water to a low spot.
Unfortunately for this waterhole, the baboons and vervets enjoy swinging on the associated wires and cables at the solar panels, so the pump isn’t working.
We are met by a quartet of Burchell’s zebra. They seem curious, but leery. Zebras are skittish animals. They turn their backs on us, and we drive on a bit farther.
There are three elephants at the waterhole, except that the waterhole is dry. The largest elephant is in the dry hole, and dozens and dozens of doves fly around it, land, take off, etc., etc, etc. The two smaller ellies wait for their turn.
The zebras come closer and linger on the outskirts.
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| This male is sniffing the urine of a female. |
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| And exhibits the Flehman response: "... to analyze complex chemical signals, especially pheromones, using the vomeronasal (Jacobson's) organ for detailed communication about reproductive status, social information, and territory." In other words, he is smelling in high definition. |
Our guide and driver decide to leave, and we go back a short distance where the road splits. Suddenly, some very dark animals appear.
THEY ARE SABLE!
I am gobsmacked. This is an animal so elusive it could be a fable. But they are right in front of me!
We take “insurance” photos. The sables are moving into thick trees and brush. We hurry back to the waterhole and set up for photos. I jokingly tell the guide that I will never forgive him if the sable don’t appear at the waterhole. He smiles, knowing how much I am enjoying this sighting.
Sure enough, they appear on a slight rise and carefull inch closer. Animals know they are especially vulnerable at waterholes because that’s where predators hide to await their chance to strike.
Sable. Bucket list sable. I am overjoyed. I know what my answer will be when Marg askes at supper what our favorite sighting was.
I take dozens of photos, hoping some are worthy of these animals. They are a variety called “Common Sable.” There is NOTHING common about them. They are beautiful.
Compact and robust with coats that range from rich chestnut to black, males are almost five feet high at the shoulder and weigh about 500 lbs. Females are smaller. Both sexes have horns.
Of the several varieties of sable, only the Giant Sable of Angola are critically threatened.
I am terribly sorry that the waterhole is dry. It means a journey of three miles or so to the river, through territory occupied by lions.
Eventually, the sable herd leaves, heading in the general direction of the Chobe River.
The zebras are still hanging around. As are the doves. Then a vervet appears, also wanting a drink. It cannot believe there is no water.
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| Your eyes are not deceiving you. Obviously a male and yes, they are blue. |
We, too, leave the dry waterhole.
For me, this is the highlight of the trip so far. While I would very much like to see the two remaining items on my bucket list, I am inclined to think that having an open bucket list is a godod thing.
1. Blue throat (bird)
2. Shoebill stork
3. Sable (animal, not the fur coat)
4. Narwhal.
😍
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