The Africa Journals
Chapter 42
Dr. Livingstone, I
Presume?
Crossing the dreadful swamp of the Makata Plain. This journey took more than two days. Photo from Princeton.edu files |
When he was well enough to travel,
or be carried on a gurney, his trek pressed onwards towards Ujiji on the
eastern shore of Lake Tanganyika, hoping that he would find the missing man or
at least hear of his whereabouts.
***
Livingstone wasn’t missing. He knew exactly where he was all the time
and he wasn’t happy about it. He was many
miles from Ujiji, now stuck in a small village occupied by the hated Arab
slavers and dependent on them for his very existence.
Porters had absconded, taking with
them his precious medical chest that contained the medicines he could have
treated his malaria, chronic dysentery, pneumonia, and the bone-eating tropical
ulcers on his feet that were now infested with maggots.
Eventually, Livingstone recuperated
enough to make his way to Ujiji, traveling through country inhabited by
cannibals and warring tribes. Upon his
arrival, he was crushed to find the Arabs had plundered his supplies, and he
was now destitute and again dependent on the slavers for his welfare.
No, Livingstone hadn’t known he was
missing, so he was pleasantly surprised to learn that a white man had entered
the village. Then he saw the man, who
doffed his hat and said, “Dr. Livingston, I presume?” But Livingstone politely assured the
newcomer of his identity and then learned the man was Henry Stanley, sent by an
America newspaper to find him. “I thank
God, Doctor, that I have been permitted to see you,” said Stanley.
“I feel thankful that I am here to
welcome you,” replied Livingstone.
***
Stanley
remained with Livingstone for some time, and the two explored together long enough
to determine that Livingstone’s quest to find the source of the Nile would
require even further treks. Stanley
returned to civilization, and a year later, still seeking the source,
Livingstone died while kneeling to pray at his bedside on May 1, 1873 at the
age of 60.
He
faithful attendants, Chuma and Susi, decided that Livingstone’s heart should be
buried in Africa, the country in which he spent his life spreading the
Christian religion. They removed
Livingstone’s heart and other internal organs, placed them in a metal box, and buried
it under a tree in what is now Zambia.
Henry Stanley |
Then,
in an incredible act of love and devotion, Susi and Chuma prepared the body for travel by
salting it and exposing it to the African sun for a month. They then wrapped it in sailcloth and mats, disguising
it to look like trade goods, and carried it 1500 miles to the coast. Their nine-month trek was made longer than
necessary to avoid hostile tribes, and where local superstition made natives
afraid of dead bodies and would prohibit transport through their territories.
The
preserved body of Livingstone was returned to Great Britain and buries at
Westminster Abbey.
Stanley,
his fame assured by finding Livingstone, went on to explore even more of
Africa. He died in 1904 in 1904.
***
As
Russell Gammon concluded his talk about Dr. Livingstone, our river boat was
nearing its dock on the Zambezi River.
His final words about Chuma and Susi transporting the body had brought
tears to Gammon’s eyes.
At
least, I think they did. Hard to tell
because I was looking at him through my own tears.
Russell Gammon |
Map of Livingstone's journey to Ujiji and Stanley's trek to find him. |
We are to leave Victoria Falls in the morning, but we have a couple more adventures before that departure, so off we go.
It is hard-to-grasp the devotion Dr. Livingstone had to his travels and exploraton of Africa .. maybe the word devotion is incorrect .. maybe the word OBSESSION would fit better! It is absolutely amazing that he lived as long as he lived when his supplies (medical and other) were plundered not-to-mention his failing health starting with his poor feet and going up! It is amazing his 'captors' did not simply take-his-life. Dr. Livingstone is simply amazing. THANK YOU FOR EDUCATING US TO HIM .. Joy .. Cap and Patti ..
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