The India Journals, Ch. 26, Of Mughals and Fortresses

Ch. 26, Of Mughals and Fortresses

For three ruling generations from Akbar, learning, wisdom, and arts came to be much esteemed in India—Swami Vivekananda

Today’s a travel day.   Right after lunch, we will board our coach for a two hour drive to Bhartpur where a special treat awaits us.   But first, we have to catch up on something we missed when we arrived in Agra late after our flight from Kolkata was delayed.

And this is where I got my second big surprise.   The first, if you recall, was finding out I’m a magnet for hawkers.   That was the bad surprise.

Today, the coach drops us off in front of a massive red sandstone fortress called Agra Fort.   I had no idea India had forts, and with a little Googling I find India has lots of forts.   This one is a UNESCO World Heritage Centre.

I am thrilled beyond belief.   Forts and castles are my love.   I can do without palaces and temples and mosques, but forts!   Here, we run into the famous Mughals again, who conquered much of India. 

Claiming direct descent from Genghis Khan, the Mughals were Turko-Mongols from central Asia, the area that is now Uzbekistan.

We make our entrance at one of the four gates into the fort, called the Lahore Gate, also called the Amar Singh Gate.  The 94-acre fort was built by the Mughals on the ruins of another fort that had been there since the 11^th century.

Another gate, the Delhi Gate, is considered to be the masterpiece of the architecture of the era.   It is off limits to tourists because the India Military Parachute Brigade is still using the part of the fort inside that gate.

The drawbridge

The drawworks

Inside the first walls, looking out.

Mughal emperor Akbar the Great arrived in Agra in 1558 and ordered the fort reconditioned.   Four thousand workers worked on the stronghold and completed it in eight years, 1565-1573.  Akbar’s grandson is the one who built the Taj Mahal.

The unevenness of the ramp allowed for traction for the horses.

Built in a semi-circular shape, the fort is protected by a moat and drawbridges, and its walls are 70 feet high.

The Mughals, especially under Akbar, introduced a period of great advancement in India.   They were tolerant of all religions, and commerce boomed.

The is the Hall of Public Reception.  

The common folk would gather in this courtyard while the emperor sat on his throne (photo below).   The design of the arches amplified his speech so clearly that the commoners could hear every word.

This is where the emperor's throne was.

This block of marble below the throne room is where his family sat.

Over the centuries, the fort was occupied by various rulers and armies until the British conquered it in 1803.  In 1857, the country saw direct rule by the British.

 ***

For photos of the Delhi Gate and information and history of the fort, see this site:
http://www.brandbharat.com/english/up/districts/Agra/Red%20Fort%20Agra.html

Delhi gate from Wikimedia Commons

And now, more fort photos than you ever wanted to see.... unless you love forts as much as I do.

The throne room.

I explored every stairwell and every cranny.   I got lost twice and a guide had to find me.

A look back at the hall of public reception.

The glass palace.   Bits of mirrored glass are embedded all over.

This is inside the corner tower above.

 

Courtyard of the Hindu palace inside the fort.

Inside the Hindu palace in the fort.

The walls of the structure were hollow.   During cold months, the walls were filled with boiling water which transferred heat to the room.   Notice the depression in the floor beyond the tourists.

This is where the water went when the walls were drained.

Close up of one column.

Didn't get far exploring this cubby hole.

Note the Jewish Star of David embossed in the sandstone.   The Mughals accommodated all religions.

The emperor's bathtub.

Many parts of the fort, including this emperor's bathtub were decorated with gold and precious jewels.   They were stripped by various conquerors, including the British.

Steps inside the tub.

This dog is asleep in grass clippings.

Leaving by the Lahore Gate.   You can see that even if an invading army gained entrance across the moat and drawbridge and the battlements, it still had to fight its way up this long ramp.

Re-grouting the ramp.

Therer were monkeys climbing all around the Lahore Gate as we left.   This group was huddled for warmth.

This one ran down the ramp and sat about three feet from me.

This one was pretty close too.   It appears to have swollen glands.