The 2023 Brazil Journals, Chapter Twenty-eight

Chapter Twenty-Eight

Last Day on the Cuiaba River

I haven't been everywhere, 

but it's on my list.

--Unknown

 

 

 

I’m walking toward the dock when I’m treated to a white-eyed parakeet on a branch almost right above me.   I stop for a quick photo and then hustle to the boat.   

White-eyed parakeet.

It’s our final day here at Hotel Porto Jofre and our last day on the Cuiaba and its tributaries and lagoons.

 

It’s a beautiful morning, as they all have been.   It isn’t yet the searing heat and I'm not yet fully covered, but trust me, I will get there before late morning.

Protection from the harsh sun.

 

We are on the water more than an hour before we find our first jaguar of the day.   It’s hunting along the bank as they do.   For the most part, she’s in the shade but then, in a photographer’s dream, Alira the jaguar steps into the golden light of morning.   

 

Alira in the golden light of sunrise.

 

 

Dream shots, right there.

 

 

We stop to photograph some Black-capped Donacobious.

 

 

We enter a lagoon and see a couple giant river otters along the water hyacinth, but don’t stop for photos as their position is less than ideal.

 

 

Some birds in the lagoon:

The gorgeous striated heron.

Kiskadee

White-winged swallow.

 

 

On the way out of the  lagoon, we hear some plaintive cries and discover it’s one of the giant river otters.   It’s swimming back and forth, crying and crying and crying.   Octavio tells us it’s looking for the second otter.

A short video so you can hear the otter's cry.   Note that it begins with a sharp whistle.   

 

Speculation as to the second otter abounds.   One is that a jaguar got it, but Octavio assures us that can’t be the case as that is a rare, if ever, occurance.   

 

Another guess is that the second otter caught a fish and doesn’t want to share.   But, the crying otter search goes on far too long, unless the missing otter caught something the size of Moby Dick.

 

Nonetheless, my heart is heavy when we leave without the otters having a joyful reunion.   Later, we are assured the second otter appeared, but consider this:   what else would the guides tell you when you are concerned enough to ask?

As with most guided trips, they want you to enjoy the trip.  

 

We see another jaguar in the water but it climbs the riverbank and disappears.

 

In the afternoon, we spot a troop of howler monkeys in the trees.

A youngster.

 

An osprey takes off from the water and flies ahead of us.

 

Then, another jaguar is hunting and there are a number of boats lined up with passengers watching.  Next to us is a boat that makes a lot of noise as the driver shifts in and out of gear, trying to maintain his position.

A  missed strike at a caiman.

 

At one point, we are slightly behind his boat and the exhaust stink is awful.  I don't say anything for a while, but finally I turn around and ask Octavio if we can get out from behind that boat and he relays the info to Vanderlay and we move away.

 

Octavio says he wished “they” would not permit two-stroke outboards on the river for exactly those reasons--noise and stinky exhaust fumes.  Most of the boats are powered with four-stroke outboards, quiet, not noxious, and powerful.

 

More jaguars appear as we head back.   It’s Ti and her cub.

So-so photo with cell but it's Ti and her cub.

 

It’s too dark for my cameras, so out comes the iPhone for some so-so photos.

 

 And a short video:

And then, this part of the trip is over.   Tomorrow, a three-hour drive will take us to our next, and final, lodge before we begin the long trek home.

 

 

 

 

Jabiru stork

Yellow-rumped cacique and orange-backed troupial.

Splash splash cacique